Mary & Bill travel from Budapest to Prague

Amsterdam

445pm – sitting in very hot gate area waiting for final boarding to Toronto. Don’t you just love airports!

Final Night in Prague

Mary and I enjoyed a wonderful last night dinner at a renowned Prague hotel / restaurant, the Imperial Cafe. It was designed in 1912-13 in an Art Noveau motif. It was fascinating to look at. One of the tidbits in its history is that of being a favourite dining location for high ranking Nazi soldiers during the war, but we were told during this period the local Czechs avoided the place.

Tomorrow we head for home.

I finally get into a photo and forget and leave the hat on. I'll hear about that.

I finally get into a photo and forget and leave the hat on. I’ll hear about that.

Final dinner in Prague; the Imperial Cafe

Final dinner in Prague; the Imperial Cafe

Wall and ceiling motifs in the Imperial Cafe

Wall and ceiling motifs in the Imperial Cafe

Cemetery inside Terezin concentration camp. There is also a Cross for fallen Russian soldiers.

Cemetery inside Terezin concentration camp. There is also a Cross for fallen Russian soldiers.

"Group" cell inside Terezin. Initially 40 women, then up to 100 toward end of war.

“Group” cell inside Terezin. Initially 40 women, then up to 100 toward end of war. Much darker than looks in pic.

A view inside the walls

A view inside the walls

Translates "Work Liberates"

Translates “Work Liberates”

People crammed into bunks.

People crammed into bunks.

When bullets became too costly to "waste on Jews", they were simply hung.

When bullets became too costly to “waste on Jews”, they were simply hung.

Quarters of the Commandant, his wife, and children

Quarters of the Commandant, his wife, and children

Today I joined a small group from our tour for a 1 hour bus ride and walking tour of Terezin. Terezin was and is a small village created in the 1700’s, adjacent to a milatary fortress that was constructed in 1780. However it was used by the Nazi’s between 1940 and 1945 as a Jewish Ghetto and holding place before Jews were sent off to Aushwitz and other such camps to be killed.

In 1945 a documentary, propaganda movie was made by the Nazis’ to demonstrate to the world and particularly the Swiss Red Cross during a one day visit that the living conditions of the Jews were tolerable.  The movie was later lost after the war but some segments of it survived, which we were able to view today.  There is one room in particular filled with sinks and washing areas for the Jews, making it appear that facilities were available. We learned today that that room was closed forever the day after the Red Cross left.

Touring the concentration camp was very interesting and a little disturbing; to think that …here it was…actual evidence that people could treat each other in such a barbaric manner. The cell blocks were all very organized. Group cells, numbered for 40 inhabitants, however later in the war, due to over population these same “group cells” held 100…with one latrine and no water. One can only imagine! In 1945 a typhoid epidemic broke out, as much a concern for the German soldiers as for the inhabitants. There were other blocks of cells  – solitary, some with a little light from a small window, others, for so called worst offenders, with no light at all. These would be the size of a medium sized bedroom closet.

The Commandant live in a palacial house with his family including two daughters, including a large cement swimming pool. This was all within metres of the cells of the inhabitants.

Children – were segregated by age: 0-3 with their mother, 4-6 removed from mother and segregated, 7-11, and 12 – 15.

In 1939 the “Nuremberg Racial Codex” was imposed by the Third Reich. It was in 1941 that the Nazis’ began moving Jews into concentration camps like Terezin. The local Czech population was forceably removed from the village in 1938. By 1940 the “Final Solution” was implemented, to eradicate the entire Jewish population from Europe.

On the return trip  Terezin we learned that corn and wheat were the most productive products in the Czech Republic. Poppy fields also dotted the horizon. They are used for a variety of Czech foodstuffs. There were also fields of sugar beets, barley, and lots of hops. Messerschmitt aircraft were manufactured in Prague during WWII.

Last night we headed out to a Czech Folklore Dinner, about a half hour bus ride. Enroute we learned more interesting stories about the Czech Republic and Prague. Although the Russians liberated Prague from Nazi Germany in 1945, they returned in the 1960’s to take it over as a communist country, part of the USSR. Their liberation did not happen until 1994. Depite the abundance of Christian and Jewish Synagogues in Prague it is a predeominantly atheist country. As a result almost anything can catch on; they currently have a “Jedi” (thats right…from Star Wars) following of close to 30,000.

Prague is made up of 5 Towns: Old Town, New Town, Jewish Town, Lesser Town, and Castle Town, each with their own Town Hall. Prague was described as the centre of Baroque architecture although it is not solely baroque. They are very proud of this.

The Prague castle was built in the 9th century and includes St. Vita’s cathedral, an impressive building but one where many of the locations built to contain statues were vacant. It was explained that that was because of lack of funds. Was it that or money combined with the lack of a Christian tradition under communist rule that reduced the importance of the missing icons? Our guide, when I asked her, simply said lack of funds and went on further that you  will find such a thing all across Europe. That has not been my limited experience, however she was old enough to have been raised and educated in the communist school. Who knows what they were taught.

The Folklore dinner was excellent. I have included a few pics. Lots of food, wine, beer, singing, dancing. Some in our party even got up to dance…with some encouragement. The hosts were very friendly and their ability to instantly change their language to Italian (there was an Italian group there as well) was impressive.

You will also notice an unusual wine service in the picture below. Two tube like decanters, about 3ft long, with a “bulb” containing the wine are hoisted on each of the servers shoulders, one for white, one for red. He masterly dips them into your glass and stops the flow with his finger. We were hoping his hands are clean, but someone said he alcohol in the wine would do that job.

Folklore Dinner, Prague

Folklore Dinner, Prague

Unique Wine service

Unique Wine service

Prague

Prague is a beautiful ancient city. It’s old section is larger than expected and would take days to explore. We are capturing the highlights today and tomorrow after having a brief 1 hour tour last evening when we arrived.

As in each of the cities we have visited the guides seem most genuinly proud of their cities and do not seem to just recite their stories. Canada, and indeed North America seem so young, at a few hundred years,  when compared to cities and peoples who have survived 1000’s of years, and most of whose customs and traditions seem related to battles and religions which have dominated their past. It makes for understanding their ethnicities.

Old Town Square Prague

Old Town Square Prague

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Royal Castle Entrance, Prague

Royal Castle Entrance, Prague

Charles Bridge, Prague

Charles Bridge, Prague

Underground restaurant, Prague

Underground restaurant, Prague

 

Prague Square

Prague Square

Prague, Astronomical Clock

Prague, Astronomical Clock

The unexplained

The unexplained

Carlsbad (Karlovy Vary) Mineral Water natural fountains.

Carlsbad (Karlovy Vary)
Mineral Water natural fountains.

Last Dinner aboard ship

Last Dinner aboard ship

Carlsbad

Carlsbad

Regensburg, Germany
This town experienced little destruction from WWII, leaving the medieval city preserved. Regensburg is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the home of Oskar Schindler (“Schindler’s List), and the former home of Pope Benedict XVI. BMW and the University are the largest employers. It was here that the Roman’s built the first bridge across the Danube.

Today was another very hot day, The showers upon return are a welcoming event.

Farewell Dinner
The Farewell Dinner was held Tuesday night, one night early, again resulting from complications created by the Lockmaster’s strike. Once again the dinner was exceptional.

Wednesday, 7/24/13
Canal Session (Nic,Cruise Manager)
This was about a 1/2 hour session and slide show on the Rhine, Main, Danube canal system. The system connects the North Sea to the Black Sea, some 3,480 kilometers. It crosses the Continental Divide which divides the Rhine and Danube river basins. The Main Danube canal alone has 16 locks, even though we passed through upwards of 25 locks on our journey. There has been a 30% per year increase in river cruising over the past 6 years. There is a large and growing market for this type of travel, albeit Mother Nature (floods and the like) as well as man made problems (labour unrest) are a detriment.

Rotating Strikes by German Lockmasters

After considering the cumulative impact of he strike situation this past week, we have realized that we only docked 2 out of 7 nights where we were supposed to. We ended up being bussed to/from locations making for a more hectic, less relaxing week than planned. At least two times we were required to walk through fields to reach a small municipal dock. All in all we missed out on significant sailing time. We understand that the lock strike situation was beyond the control of AMA. They busily altered our daily plans to try to accommodate making it a very frustrating experience for the staff as well.

Tour of Nuremberg
Started with a bus tour of the old city. 90% of the city was destroyed by Allied bombing in 45 minutes in 1945. 6,000 civilians were killed although 40,000 to 50,000 survived in medieval underground caverns which had been originally built to store beer. So, the saying goes they were saved by beer!

We visited the Nuremberg Court House, the famous room 600, where the post WWII trials were held. We were very lucky to be able to go inside as it is and active courtroom, but happened to be vacant while we were there. We had an excellent guide, a political science professor. His area of specialty is the Third Reich. He was very informative, in a dry, witty sort of way. School children and all military personnel are required to take a course about the Third Reich in the context of how democracy should work and how the Third Reich didn’t. There exists a minimal Neo Nazi movement in Germany currently of about 28,000 out of a population of about 8 million. Freedom of Speech is a right in Germany with the exception of the speaking out about WWII and/or the Holocaust. 1 year jail terms are imposed for such comments supporting the war or denying the Holocaust. Neo Nazis more welcome in other countries namely USA and Canada, top 2, due to their liberal freedom of speech laws. Old Town Nurmberg rebuilt to original look following war. Among other options perception was to make like original part of the general psyche to forget the atrocities of the war. Movies: “Nuremberg”, Alec Baldwin, of Nuremberg Trial, Spencer Tracy et al. Recounted trial, including outcomes for many of the defendents. 21/24 found guilty, 12 sentenced to death. 4 Judges: Great Britain, U.S., France, Russia. Russian judge, under Stalin, wanted all convicted and hung. French judge more liberal; accepting some of the defense. Left the US and British judges to rule. Using 4 judges in the first place was not recommended, but politics won the day.

Nazi Party Rally Fields and Coliseum in Nuremberg
Massive, built at huge expense based on Greco Roman architecture to immortalize the Nazi Party and the Fuehrer in particular. Created to suggest the Fuehrer as a messianic figure. 150,000 to 180,000 would attend week long rallies held first week of each September.

Thursday, 7/25/13
3 1/2 hour bus trip from Nuremberg to Prague, Czechoslovakia, stopping for lunch and short walking tour of Karlavy Vary (or Carlsbad). Czech Republic is right in the middle of Europe, population about 10 million. It is in the European Union but has two more years before it must switch to the Euro. Prague was never bombed in WWII, leaving it’s old town intact. In 1994 Czechoslovakia was split into two, the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

Salzburg, Austria

From Vienna we sailed to Melk, Austria, then to Passau, Germany. This was not quite as the itinerary was supposed to be, however due to the rotating strikes by German Lock workers, our original itineraries changed. The Cruise Manager has done an excellent job making adjustments and trying to make the best of the situation. Nonetheless, we have missed very little of our itinerary aside from having different departure points for day trips.

Although not as many castles on this trip as we saw in France in 2008, the secenery along the river is fantastic. Lots of photo-ops.

The onboard dining experience has been excellent. I have taken the habit of photographing most of our dinners; they are so nicely presented. A few of these are posted. Last evening was a little special for Mary and I. We were surprised with a special acknowledgement (cake, with sparkler, procession, music) for desert to recognize our 35th wedding anniversary. Very nicely done. Following dinner, we were again surprised with our cabin turn down; they had prepared a special treat in our cabin (see photo).

Salzburg, a 2 hour bus ride from the river was worth exploring; the whole Sound of Music thing, Mary had promised the girls we would visit and try to meet Julie Andrews. Of course she has been out of town for some time so that didn’t happen. The “hills were alive” though (see pic). Beautiful city though, about 200,000 people, very picturesque. We also visited Mondsee,  where the Sound of Music “movie church” was located. So hopefully we have satisfied that curiousity. Beautiful countryside; very small, picuturesque village. Salzburg was also the birthplace of Amadeus Mozart

After breakfast this morning, at 1030 we were invited (onboard) to a cultural “Fruhschoppen”. Basically an excuse to eat and drink beer again. It normally takes place on Sunday mornings after church service however this being Tuesday, I am not sure it really matters. It involves beer, various appetizers, large pretzels, pork, various sausages, and more beer! Mary loved it! We are going to pass on lunch however, which is of course served 1 1/2 hour later!

After a little reprieve, we leave at 1pm for an afternoon walking tour of Regensburg, Germany, which I am guessing will involve food at some point.

Our ship cruising the Danube

Our ship cruising the Danube

Riverside village (one of many)

Riverside village (one of many)

Entree, Sea Bass

Entree, Sea Bass

Happy Anniversary!

Happy Anniversary!

Two Swans (made from towels- requires post graduate "linen" degree)

Two Swans (made from towels- requires post graduate “linen” degree)

Church in Mondsee, Austria (from Sound of Music film)

Church in Mondsee, Austria (from Sound of Music film)

Mozart's birthplace

Mozart’s birthplace

Appetizer

Appetizer

Strauss Concert - Imperial Palace

Strauss Concert – Imperial Palace

We have been cruisng now for a couple of days and becoming very comfortable in our floating surroundings. To our eyes there is little evidence of this spring’s flooding, but I think the locals would say otherwise. Have been doing lots of walking and picture taking. Steve and Mary Anne are great travel companions. We share many interests and lots of laughs. And of course people watching, in particular some of the characters onboard. As in all groups there are those that just leave you in “awe…”…puzzled! And then there are others where you just know a “story” lurks there. There are many countries represented by our shipmates; large contingents from Australia, the US, and Israel, but many others from England, many Canadians of course aside from us (the quiet, polite group), China, Spain, New Zealand and Chile. We have learned from the New Zealanders that their view of Australians is quite similar to our Canadian impression of Americans.

I am sure as the week goes on more stories will present themselves.

Great trip thus far.

Imperial Palace, Venna

Imperial Palace, Venna

Menu

Menu

Apple Strudel aboard ship

Apple Strudel aboard ship

First Lock

Enjoyng famous Sacher Cake with coffee in Vienna

AMADolce Cruise begins

Before boarding the ship we toured Budapest, visited the “House of Terror”, the building where suspected informants and such were interrogated, tortured and many hung during the 1950’s revolution.

Began cruising in the  evening. Everyone was on the upper deck around 9pm onward cameras in hand. The views of the Budapest riverfront at night were exceptional. It is hard to believe that many of the buildings survived two wars and revolutions. Cruised at a pretty good speed up river into the dark of the night. Not having much to look we joined several to the lounge; very good piano player.

Our first dinner on board was very good, everything presented was picture perfect.

This morning we went through our first of 25 locks. It was a HUGE, 4 ships can fit in the lock at one time. Leisurely day today, cruising towards Bratislova, in Slovakia. Expecting a walking tour this afternoon.

Have posted a couple of recent pictures.

Relaxing in the ship's lounge

Relaxing in the ship’s lounge

First Dinner

First Dinner

Cruising Out of Budapest

Cruising Out of Budapest

 

Full Day in Budapest

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Wednesday, July 17th

Today was spent bus touring and walking through Old Town Budapest. The tour guide was excellent; learned alot about the history of the country which mad the surrounding building and people watching all the more intersting. The 20th century, although not the only century of upheaval in this country, was a devastating one, not only for its peoples but also its buildings. During the century it has been Nazi occupied followed by Communism.

Very hot here altough dry. You really notice how thirsty you become. Enjoyed pizza and beer on a sidewalk cafe mid afternoon followed by a dinner cruise after dark up the Danube. We toured a large indoor market.

We are finding that English is not a problem and people are quite friendly.